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Edingburgh Picturesque Notes



by Robert Louis Stevenson







CHAPTER I。

INTRODUCTORY。







THE ancient and famous metropolis of the North sits 

overlooking a windy estuary from the slope and summit of 

three hills。  No situation could be more commanding for 

the head city of a kingdom; none better chosen for noble 

prospects。  From her tall precipice and terraced gardens 

she looks far and wide on the sea and broad champaigns。  

To the east you may catch at sunset the spark of the May 

lighthouse; where the Firth expands into the German 

Ocean; and away to the west; over all the carse of 

Stirling; you can see the first snows upon Ben Ledi。



But Edinburgh pays cruelly for her high seat in one 

of the vilest climates under heaven。  She is liable to be 

beaten upon by all the winds that blow; to be drenched 

with rain; to be buried in cold sea fogs out of the east; 

and powdered with the snow as it comes flying southward 

from the Highland hills。  The weather is raw and 

boisterous in winter; shifty and ungenial in summer; and 

a downright meteorological purgatory in the spring。  The 

delicate die early; and I; as a survivor; among bleak 

winds and plumping rain; have been sometimes tempted to 

envy them their fate。  For all who love shelter and the 

blessings of the sun; who hate dark weather and perpetual 

tilting against squalls; there could scarcely be found a 

more unhomely and harassing place of residence。  Many 

such aspire angrily after that Somewhere…else of the 

imagination; where all troubles are supposed to end。  

They lean over the great bridge which joins the New Town 

with the Old … that windiest spot; or high altar; in this 

northern temple of the winds … and watch the trains 

smoking out from under them and vanishing into the tunnel 

on a voyage to brighter skies。  Happy the passengers who 

shake off the dust of Edinburgh; and have heard for the 

last time the cry of the east wind among her chimney…

tops!  And yet the place establishes an interest in 

people's hearts; go where they will; they find no city of 

the same distinction; go where they will; they take a 

pride in their old home。



Venice; it has been said; differs from another 

cities in the sentiment which she inspires。  The rest may 

have admirers; she only; a famous fair one; counts lovers 

in her train。  And; indeed; even by her kindest friends; 

Edinburgh is not considered in a similar sense。  These 

like her for many reasons; not any one of which is 

satisfactory in itself。  They like her whimsically; if 

you will; and somewhat as a virtuoso dotes upon his 

cabinet。  Her attraction is romantic in the narrowest 

meaning of the term。  Beautiful as she is; she is not so 

much beautiful as interesting。  She is pre…eminently 

Gothic; and all the more so since she has set herself off 

with some Greek airs; and erected classic temples on her 

crags。  In a word; and above all; she is a curiosity。  

The Palace of Holyrood has been left aside in the growth 

of Edinburgh; and stands grey and silent in a workman's 

quarter and among breweries and gas works。  It is a house 

of many memories。  Great people of yore; kings and 

queens; buffoons and grave ambassadors; played their 

stately farce for centuries in Holyrood。  Wars have been 

plotted; dancing has lasted deep into the night; … murder 

has been done in its chambers。  There Prince Charlie held 

his phantom levees; and in a very gallant manner 

represented a fallen dynasty for some hours。  Now; all 

these things of clay are mingled with the dust; the 

king's crown itself is shown for sixpence to the vulgar; 

but the stone palace has outlived these charges。  For 

fifty weeks together; it is no more than a show for 

tourists and a museum of old furniture; but on the fifty…

first; behold the palace reawakened and mimicking its 

past。  The Lord Commissioner; a kind of stage sovereign; 

sits among stage courtiers; a coach and six and 

clattering escort come and go before the gate; at night; 

the windows are lighted up; and its near neighbours; the 

workmen; may dance in their own houses to the palace 

music。  And in this the palace is typical。  There is a 

spark among the embers; from time to time the old volcano 

smokes。  Edinburgh has but partly abdicated; and still 

wears; in parody; her metropolitan trappings。  Half a 

capital and half a country town; the whole city leads a 

double existence; it has long trances of the one and 

flashes of the other; like the king of the Black Isles; 

it is half alive and half a monumental marble。  There are 

armed men and cannon in the citadel overhead; you may see 

the troops marshalled on the high parade; and at night 

after the early winter even…fall; and in the morning 

before the laggard winter dawn; the wind carries abroad 

over Edinburgh the sound of drums and bugles。  Grave 

judges sit bewigged in what was once the scene of 

imperial deliberations。  Close by in the High Street 

perhaps the trumpets may sound about the stroke of noon; 

and you see a troop of citizens in tawdry masquerade; 

tabard above; heather…mixture trowser below; and the men 

themselves trudging in the mud among unsympathetic by…

standers。  The grooms of a well…appointed circus tread 

the streets with a better presence。  And yet these are 

the Heralds and Pursuivants of Scotland; who are about to 

proclaim a new law of the United Kingdom before two…score 

boys; and thieves; and hackney…coachmen。  Meanwhile every 

hour the bell of the University rings out over the hum of 

the streets; and every hour a double tide of students; 

coming and going; fills the deep archways。  And lastly; 

one night in the springtime … or say one morning rather; 

at the peep of day … late folk may hear voices of many 

men singing a psalm in unison from a church on one side 

of the old High Street; and a little after; or perhaps a 

little before; the sound of many men singing a psalm in 

unison from another church on the opposite side of the 

way。  There will be something in the words above the dew 

of Hermon; and how goodly it is to see brethren dwelling 

together in unity。  And the late folk will tell 

themselves that all this singing denotes the conclusion 

of two yearly ecclesiastical parliaments … the 

parliaments of Churches which are brothers in many 

admirable virtues; but not specially like brothers in 

this particular of a tolerant and peaceful life。



Again; meditative people will find a charm in a 

certain consonancy between the aspect of the city and its 

odd and stirring history。  Few places; if any; offer a 

more barbaric display of contrasts to the eye。  In the 

very midst stands one of the most satisfactory crags in 

nature … a Bass Rock upon dry land; rooted in a garden 

shaken by passing trains; carrying a crown of battlements 

and turrets; and describing its war…like shadow over the 

liveliest and brightest thoroughfare of the new town。  

From their smoky beehives; ten stories high; the unwashed 

look down upon the open squares and gardens of the 

wealthy; and gay people sunning themselves along Princes 

Street; with its mile of commercial palaces all beflagged 

upon some great occasion; see; across a gardened valley 

set with statues; where the washings of the Old Town 

flutter in the breeze at its high windows。  And then; 

upon all sides; what a clashing of architecture!  In this 

one valley; where the life of the town goes most busily 

forward; there may be seen; shown one above and behind 

another by the accidents of the ground; buildings in 

almost every style upon the globe。  Egyptian and Greek 

temples; Venetian palaces and Gothic spires; are huddled 

one over another in a most admired disorder; while; above 

all; the brute mass of the Castle and the summit of 

Arthur's Seat look down upon these imitations with a 

becoming dignity; as the works of Nature may look down 

the monuments of Art。  But Nature is a more 

indiscriminate patroness than we imagine; and in no way 

frightened of a strong effect。  The birds roost as 

willingly among the Corinthian capitals as in the 

crannies of the crag; the same atmosphere and daylight 

clothe the eternal rock and yesterday's imitation 

portico; and as the soft northern sunshine throws out 

everything into a glorified distinctness … or easterly 

mists; coming up with the blue evening; fuse all these 

incongruous features into one; and the lamps begin to 

glitter along the street; and faint lights to burn in the 

high windows across the valley … the feeling grows upon 

you that this also is a piece of nature in the most 

intimate sense; that this profusion of eccentricities; 

this dream in masonry and living rock; is not a drop…

scene in a theatre; but a city in the world of every…day 

reality; connected by railway and telegraph…wire with all 

the capitals of Europe; a

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