memoirs of general william t. sherman-1-第9节
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about five miles inside the heads； directly in front of the city of Rio Janeiro。 Words will not describe the beauty of this perfect harbor； nor the delightful feeling after a long voyage of its fragrant airs； and the entire contrast between all things there and what we had left in New York。
We found the United Staten frigate Columbia anchored there； and after the Lexington was properly moored； nearly all the officers went on shore for sight…seeing and enjoyment。 We landed at a wharf opposite which was a famous French restaurant； Farroux； and after ordering supper we all proceeded to the Rua da Ouvador； where most of the shops were； especially those for making feather flowers； as much to see the pretty girls as the flowers which they so skillfully made； thence we went to the theatre； where； besides some opera； we witnessed the audience and saw the Emperor Dom Pedro； and his Empress； the daughter of the King of Sicily。 After the theatre； we went back to the restaurant； where we had an excellent supper； with fruits of every variety and excellence； such as we had never seen before； or even knew the names of。 Supper being over； we called for the bill； and it was rendered in French； with Brazilian currency。 It footed up some twenty…six thousand reis。 The figures alarmed us； so we all put on the waiters' plate various coins in gold； which he took to the counter and returned the change； making the total about sixteen dollars。 The millreis is about a dollar； but being a paper…money was at a discount； so as only to be worth about fifty…six cents in coin。
The Lexington remained in Rio about a week； during which we visited the Palace； a few miles in the country； also the Botanic Gardens； a place of infinite interest； with its specimens of tropical fruits； spices； etc。； etc。； and indeed every place of note。 The thing I best recall is a visit Halleck and I made to the Corcovado； a high mountain whence the water is conveyed for the supply of the city。 We started to take a walk； and passed along the aqueduct； which approaches the city by a aeries of arches； thence up the point of the hill to a place known as the Madre； or fountain； to which all the water that drips from the leaves is conducted by tile gutters； and is carried to the city by an open stone aqueduct。
Here we found Mr。 Henry A。 Wise； of Virginia； the United States minister to Brazil； and a Dr。 Garnett； United States Navy； his intended son…in…law。 We had a very interesting conversation； in which Mr。 Wise enlarged on the fact that Rio was supplied from the 〃dews of heaven；〃 for in the dry season the water comes from the mists and fogs which hang around the Corcovado； drips from the leaves of the trees； and is conducted to the Madre fountain by miles of tile gutters。 Halleck and I continued our ascent of the mountain； catching from points of the way magnificent views of the scenery round about Rio Janeiro。 We reached near the summit what was called the emperor's coffee…plantation； where we saw coffee…berries in their various stages； and the scaffolds on which the berries were dried before being cleaned。 The coffee…tree reminded me of the red haw…tree of Ohio； and the berries were somewhat like those of the same tree； two grains of coffee being inclosed in one berry。 These were dried and cleaned of the husk by hand or by machinery。 A short； steep ascent from this place carried us to the summit； from which is beheld one of the most picturesque views on earth。 The Organ Mountains to the west and north； the ocean to the east； the city of Rio with its red…tiled houses at our feet； and the entire harbor like a map spread out； with innumerable bright valleys； make up a landscape that cannot be described by mere words。 This spot is universally visited by strangers； and has often been described。 After enjoying it immeasurably； we returned to the city by another route； tired but amply repaid by our long walk。
In due time all had been done that was requisite； and the Lexington put to sea and resumed her voyage。 In October we approached Cape Horn； the first land descried was Staten Island； white with snow； and the ship seemed to be aiming for the channel to its west； straits of Le Maire； but her course was changed and we passed around to the east。 In time we saw Cape Horn； an island rounded like an oven； after which it takes its name （Ornos） oven。 Here we experienced very rough weather； buffeting about under storm stay…sails； and spending nearly a month before the wind favored our passage and enabled the course of the ship to be changed for Valparaiso。 One day we sailed parallel with a French sloop…of…war； and it was sublime to watch the two ships rising and falling in those long deep swells of the ocean。 All the time we were followed by the usual large flocks of Cape…pigeons and albatrosses of every color。 The former resembled the common barn…pigeon exactly； but are in fact gulls of beautiful and varied colors； mostly dove…color。 We caught many with fishing…lines baited with pork。 We also took in the same way many albatrosses。 The white ones are very large； and their down is equal to that of the swan。 At last Cape Horn and its swelling seas were left behind； and we reached Valparaiso in about sixty days from Rio。 We anchored in the open roadstead； and spent there about ten days； visiting all the usual places of interest； its foretop； main…top； mizzen…top； etc。 Halleck and Ord went up to Santiago； the capital of Chili； some sixty miles inland； but I did not go。 Valparaiso did not impress me favorably at all。 Seen from the sea； it looked like a long string of houses along the narrow beach； surmounted with red banks of earth； with little verdure； and no trees at all。 Northward the space widened out somewhat； and gave room for a plaza； but the mass of houses in that quarter were poor。 We were there in November； corresponding to our early spring； and we enjoyed the large strawberries which abounded。 The Independence frigate； Commodore Shubrick； came in while we were there； having overtaken us； bound also for California。 We met there also the sloop…of…war levant； from California； and from the officers heard of many of the events that had transpired about the time the navy； under Commodore Sloat； had taken possession of the country。
All the necessary supplies being renewed in Valparaiso； the voyage was resumed。 For nearly forty days we had uninterrupted favorable winds； being in the 〃trades；〃 and； having settled down to sailor habits； time passed without notice。 We had brought with us all the books we could find in New York about California； and had read them over and over again： Wilkes's 〃Exploring Expedition；〃 Dana's 〃Two Years before the Mast；〃 and Forbes's 〃Account of the Missions。〃 It was generally understood we were bound for Monterey； then the capital of Upper California。 We knew； of course； that General Kearney was enroute for the same country overland； that Fremont was therewith his exploring party； that the navy had already taken possession； and that a regiment of volunteers； Stevensons； was tofollow us from New York； but nevertheless we were impatient to reach our destination。 About the middle of January the ship began to approach the California coast； of which the captain was duly cautious； because the English and Spanish charts differed some fifteen miles in the longitude； and on all the charts a current of two miles an hour was indicated northward along the coast。 At last land was made one morning； and here occurred one of those accidents so provoking after a long and tedious voyage。 Macomb； the master and regular navigator； had made the correct observations； but Nicholson during the night； by an observation on the north star； put the ship some twenty miles farther south than was the case by the regular reckoning； so that Captain Bailey gave directions to alter the course of the ship more to the north； and to follow the coast up； and to keep a good lookout for Point Pinos that marks the location of Monterey Bay。 The usual north wind slackened； so that when noon allowed Macomb to get a good observation； it was found that we were north of Ano Nuevo； the northern headland of Monterey Bay。 The ship was put about； but little by little arose one of those southeast storms so common on the coast in winter； and we buffeted about for several days； cursing that unfortunate observation on the north star； for； on first sighting the coast； had we turned for Monterey； instead of away to the north； we would have been snugly anchored before the storm。 But the southeaster abated； and the usual northwest wind came out again； and we sailed steadily down into the roadstead of Monterey Bay。 This is shaped somewhat like a fish hook； the barb being the harbor； the point being Point Pinos； the southern headland。 Slowly the land came out of the water； the high mountains about Santa Cruz； the low beach of the Saunas； and the strongly…marked ridge terminating in the sea in a point of dark pine…trees。 Then the line of whitewashed houses of adobe； backed by the groves of dark oaks； resembling old apple…trees； and then we saw two vessels anchored close to the town。 One was a small merchant…brig and another a large ship apparently dismasted。 At last we saw a boat coming
