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dently　　unwilling　to　cross　the　seemingly　inviting　spot。　　I　thought　that　the　　scent　of　a　wolf　or　some　other　wild　animal　might　have　disturbed　him；　　but　was　soon　undeceived　by　his　sinking　up　to　the　knees　in　a　bog。　　　The　animal　uttered　a　shrill　sharp　neigh；　and　exhibited　every　sign　　of　the　greatest　terror；　making　at　the　same　time　great　efforts　to　　extricate　himself；　and　plunging　forward；　but　every　moment　sinking　　deeper。　　At　last　he　arrived　where　a　small　vein　of　rock　showed　　itself；　on　this　he　placed　his　fore　feet；　and　with　one　tremendous　　exertion　freed　himself　from　the　deceitful　soil；　springing　over　the　　rivulet　and　alighting　on　comparatively　firm　ground；　where　he　stood　　panting；　his　heaving　sides　covered　with　a　foamy　sweat。　　Antonio；　　who　had　been　a　terrified　observer　of　the　whole　scene；　afraid　to　　venture　forward；　returned　by　the　path　by　which　we　came　and　shortly　　afterwards　rejoined　me。　　This　adventure　brought　to　my　recollection　　the　meadow　with　its　foot…path；　which　tempted　Christian　from　the　　straight　road　to　heaven；　and　finally　conducted　him　to　the　dominions　　of　the　Giant　Despair。

NO　HAY　ATAJO　SIN　TRABAJO。

'There　is　no　short　cut　Without　some　deep　rut。'

says　the　Spanish　proverb。

We　now　began　to　descend　the　valley　by　a　broad　and　excellent　　CARRETERA；　or　carriage　road；　which　was　cut　out　of　the　steep　side　of　　the　mountain　on　our　right。　　On　our　left　was　the　gorge；　down　which　　tumbled　the　run　of　water　which　I　have　before　mentioned。　　The　road　　was　tortuous；　and　at　every　turn　the　scene　became　more　picturesque。　　　The　gorge　gradually　widened；　and　the　brook　at　its　bottom；　fed　by　a　　multitude　of　springs；　＇grew＇　more　considerable；　but　it　was　soon　far　　beneath　us；　pursuing　its　headlong　course　till　it　reached　level　　ground；　where　it　flowed　in　the　midst　of　a　beautiful　but　confined　　prairie。　　There　was　something　silvan　and　savage　in　the　mountains　on　　the　further　side；　clad　from　foot　to　pinnacle　with　trees；　so　closely　　growing　that　the　eye　was　unable　to　obtain　a　glimpse　of　the　hill…　sides　which　were　uneven　with　ravines　and　gulleys；　the　haunts　of　the　　wolf；　the　wild　boar　and　the　CORSO　or　mountain…stag；　the　last　of　　which；　as　I　was　informed　by　a　peasant　who　was　driving　a　car　of　　oxen；　frequently　descended　to　feed　in　the　prairie　and　were　shot　for　　the　sake　of　their　skins；　for　the　flesh　being　strong　and　　disagreeable　is　held　at　no　account。　　But　notwithstanding　the　　wildness　of　these　regions；　the　handiworks　of　man　were　visible。　　The　　sides　of　the　gorge　though　precipitous　were　yellow　with　little　　fields　of　barley；　and　we　saw　a　hamlet　and　church　down　in　the　　prairie　below；　whilst　merry　songs　ascended　to　our　ears　from　where　　the　mowers　were　toiling　with　their　scythes；　cutting　the　luxuriant　　and　abundant　grass。　　I　could　scarcely　believe　that　I　was　in　Spain；　　in　general　so　brown；　so　arid　and　cheerless；　and　I　almost　fancied　　myself　in　Greece；　in　that　land　of　ancient　glory；　whose　mountain　and　　forest　scenery　Theocritus　has　so　well　described。

At　the　bottom　of　the　valley　we　entered　a　small　village　washed　by　　the　brook；　which　had　now　swelled　almost　to　a　stream。　　A　more　　romantic　situation　I　had　never　witnessed。　　It　was　surrounded　and　　almost　overhung　by　huge　mountains；　and　embowered　in　trees　of　　various　kinds；　waters　sounded；　nightingales　sang；　and　the　cuckoo's　　full　note　boomed　from　the　distant　branches；　but　the　village　was　　miserable。　　The　huts　were　built　of　slate…stones；　of　which　the　　neighbouring　hills　seemed　to　be　principally　composed；　and　roofed　　with　the　same；　but　not　in　the　neat　tidy　manner　of　English　houses；　　for　the　slates　were　of　all　sizes；　and　seemed　to　be　flung　on　in　　confusion。　　We　were　spent　with　heat　and　thirst；　and　sitting　down　on　　a　stone　bench　I　entreated　a　woman　to　give　us　a　little　water。　　The　　woman　said　she　would；　but　added　that　she　expected　to　be　paid　for　　it。　　My　Greek　on　hearing　this　burst　into　horrid　execrations；　and　　speaking　Greek；　Turkish　and　Spanish　invoked　the　vengeance　of　the　　PANHAGIA　on　the　heartless　woman；　saying　'If　I　were　to　offer　a　　Mahometan　gold　for　a　draught　of　water；　he　would　dash　it　in　my　face；　　and　you　are　a　Catholic　with　the　stream　running　at　your　door。'　　I　　told　him　to　be　silent；　and　giving　the　woman　two　CUARTOS　repeated　my　　request；　whereupon　she　took　a　pitcher；　and；　going　to　the　stream；　　filled　it　with　water。　　It　tasted　muddy　and　disagreeable；　but　it　　drowned　the　fever　which　was　devouring　me。

We　again　mounted　and　proceeded　on　our　way；　which　for　a　considerable　　distance　lay　along　the　margin　of　the　stream；　which　now　fell　in　　small　cataracts；　now　brawled　over　stones；　and　at　other　times　ran　　dark　and　silent　through　deep　pools　overhung　with　tall　willows　…　　pools　which　seemed　to　abound　with　the　finny　tribe；　for　huge　trout　　frequently　sprang　from　the　water　catching　the　brilliant　fly　which　　skimmed　along　its　deceitful　surface。　　How　delightful！　　The　sun　was　　rolling　high　in　the　firmament；　casting　from　its　girdle　of　fire　the　　most　glorious　rays；　so　that　the　atmosphere　was　flickering　with　　their　splendour；　but　their　fierceness　was　either　warded　off　by　the　　shadow　of　the　trees　or　rendered　innocuous　either　by　the　refreshing　　coolness　which　rose　from　the　waters　or　by　the　gentle　breezes　which　　murmured　at　intervals　over　the　meadows　'fanning　the　cheek　or　　raising　the　hair'　of　the　wanderer。　　The　hills　gradually　receded；　　till　at　last　we　entered　a　plain　where　tall　grass　was　undulating；　　and　mighty　chestnut…trees　in　full　blossom　spread　their　giant　and　　umbrageous　boughs。　　Beneath　many　stood　cars；　the　tired　oxen　　prostrate　on　the　ground；　the　cross…bar　of　the　pole　which　they　　support　pressing　heavily　on　their　heads；　whilst　their　drivers　were　　either　employed　in　cooking　or　were　enjoying　a　delicious　SIESTA　in　　the　grass　and　shade。　　I　went　up　to　one　of　the　largest　of　these　　groups　and　demanded　of　the　individuals　whether　they　were　in　need　of　　the　Testament　of　Jesus　Christ。　　They　stared　at　one　another　and　then　　at　me；　till　at　last　a　young　man　who　was　dandling　a　long　gun　in　his　　hands　as　he　reclined　demanded　of　me　what　it　was；　at　the　same　time　　enquiring　whether　I　was　a　Catalan；　'for　you　speak　hoarse；'　said　he；　　'and　are　tall　and　fair　like　that　family。'　　I　sat　down　amongst　them　　and　said　I　was　no　Catalan；　but　I　came　from　a　spot　in　the　western　　sea　many　leagues　distant　to　sell　that　book　at　half　the　price　it　　cost；　and　that　their　souls'　welfare　depended　upon　their　being　　acquainted　with　it。　　I　then　explained　to　them　the　nature　of　the　New　　Testament　and　read　to　them　the　Parable　of　the　Sower。　　They　stared　　at　each　other　again；　but　said　that　they　were　poor　and　could　not　buy　　books。　　I　rose；　mounted；　and　was　going　away；　saying　to　them：　　　'Peace　bide　with　you。'　　Whereupon　the　young　man　with　the　gun　rose；　　and　saying；　'CASPITA！　this　is　odd；'　snatched　the　book　from　my　hand；　　and　gave　me　the　price　I　had　demanded。

Perhaps　the　whole　world　might　be　searched　in　vain　for　a　spot　whose　　natural　charms　could　rival　those　of　this　plain　or　valley　of　　Bembibre；　with　its　wall　of　mighty　mountains；　its　spreading　　chestnut…trees；　and　its　groves　of　oaks　and　willows　which　clothe　the　　banks　of　its　stream；　a　tributary　to　the　Minho。　　True　it　is　that　　when　I　passed　through　it　the　candle　of　heaven　was　blazing　in　full　　splendour；　and　everything　lighted　by　its　rays　looked　gay；　glad　and　　blessed。　　Whether　it　would　have　filled　me　with　the　same　feelings　of　　admiration　if　viewed　beneath　another　sky　I　will　not　pretend　to　　determine；　but　it　certainly　possessed　advantages　which　at　no　time　　could　fail　to　delight；　for　it　exhibited　all　the　peaceful　beauties　　of　an　English　landscape　blended　with　something　wild　and　grand；　and　　I　thought　within　myself　that　he　must　be　a　restless　dissatisfied　man　　who　born　amongst　those　scenes　would　wish　to　quit　them。　　At　the　time　　I　would　have　desired　no　better　fate　than　that　of　a　shepherd　on　the　　prairies　or　a　hunter　on　the　hills　of　Bembibre。

Three　hours　passed　away；　and　we　were　in　another　situation。　　We　had　　halted　and　refreshed　ourselves　and　horses　at　Bembibre；　a　village　of　　mud　and　slate；　and　which　possessed　little　to　attract　attention。　　We　　were　now　ascending；　for　the　road　was　over　one　of　the　extreme　ledges　　of　those　frontier　hills　which　I　have　before　so　often　mentioned；　but　　the　aspect　of　heaven　had　blackened；　clouds　were　rolling　rapidly　　from　the　west　over　the　mountains；　and　a　cold　wind　was　moaning　　dismally。　　'There　is　a　storm　travelling　through　the　air；'　said　a　　peasant；　whom　we　overtook　mounted　on　a　wretched　mule；　'and　the　　Asturians　had　better　be　on　the　look…out；　for　it　is　speeding　in　　their　direction。'　　He　had　scarce　spoken　when　a　light　so　vivid　and　　dazzling　that　it　seemed　the　whole　lustre　of　the　fiery　element　was　　concentrated　therein　broke　around　us；　filling　the　whole　atmosphere；　　and　covering　rock；　tree　and　mountain　with　a　glare　indescribable。　　　The　mule　of　the　peasant　tumbled　prostrate；　while　the　horse　I　rode　　reared　himself　perpendicularly；　and　turning　round　dashed　down　the　　hill　at　headlong　speed　which　for　some　time　it　was　impossible　to　　check。　　The　lightning　was　followed　by　a　peal　almost　as　terrible；　　but　distant；　for　it　sounded　hollow　and　deep；　the　hills；　however；　　caught　up　its　voice；　seemingly　pitching　it　along　their　summits；　　till　it　was　lost　in　interminable　space。　　Other　flashes　and　peals　　succeeded；　but　slight　in