russia in 1919(1919的俄国)-第5节
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part of the carriage an argument on the true nature of selfishness caused
some heat because the disputants insisted on drawing their illustrations
from each other's conduct。 Then there was the diversion of a swearing
match at a wayside station between the conductor and some one who tried
to get into this carriage and should have got into another。 Both were
fluent and imaginative swearers； and even the man from Archangel
stopped talking to listen to them。 One； I remember； prayed vehemently
that the other's hand might fly off； and the other； not to be outdone；
retorted with a similar prayer with regard to the former's head。 In
England the dispute； which became very fierce indeed； would have ended
in assault； but here it ended in nothing but the collection on the platform of
a small crowd of experts in bad language who applauded verbal hits with
impartiality and enthusiasm。
At last I tried to sleep； but the atmosphere in the carriage； of smoke；
babies； stale clothes； and the peculiar smell of the Russian peasantry
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RUSSIA IN 1919
which no one who has known it can forget； made sleep impossible。 But I
travelled fairly comfortably； resolutely shutting my ears to the talk；
thinking of fishing in England； and shifting from one bone to another as
each ached in turn from contact with the plank on which I lay。
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RUSSIA IN 1919
FIRST DAYS IN MOSCOW
It was a rare cold day when I struggled through the crowd out of the
station in Moscow； and began fighting with the sledge…drivers who asked a
hundred roubles to take me to the Metropole。 I remembered coming here
a year ago with Colonel Robins； when we made ten roubles a limit for the
journey and often travelled for eight。 To…day； after heated bargaining； I
got carried with no luggage but a typewriter for fifty roubles。 The streets
were white with deep snow； less well cleaned than the Petrograd streets of
this year but better cleaned than the Moscow streets of last year。 The
tramways were running。 There seemed to be at least as many sledges as
usual； and the horses were in slightly better condition than last summer
when they were scarcely able to drag themselves along。 I asked the
reason of the improvement； and the driver told me the horses＇26＇were now
rationed like human beings； and all got a small allowance of oats。 There
were crowds of people about； but the numbers of closed shops were very
depressing。 I did not then know that this was due to the nationalization
of trade and a sort of general stock…taking； the object of which was to
prevent profiteering in manufactured goods； etc。； of which there were not
enough to go round。 Before I left many shops were being reopened as
national concerns； like our own National Kitchens。 Thus； one would see
over a shop the inscription； 〃The 5th Boot Store of the Moscow Soviet〃 or
〃The 3rd Clothing Store of the Moscow Soviet〃 or 〃The 11th Book Shop。〃
It had been found that speculators bought； for example； half a dozen
overcoats； and sold them to the highest bidders； thus giving the rich an
advantage over the poor。 Now if a man needs a new suit he has to go in
his rags to his House Committee； and satisfy them that he really needs a
new suit for himself。 He is then given the right to buy a suit。 In this
way an attempt is made to prevent speculation and to ensure a more or less
equitable distribution of the inadequate stocks。 My greatest surprise was
given me by the Metropole itself； because the old wounds of the
revolution； which were left unhealed all last summer； the shell…holes and
bullet splashes which marked it when I was here before； have been
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RUSSIA IN 1919
repaired。
Litvinov had given me a letter to Karakhan of the Commissariat of
Foreign Affairs； asking him to help me in getting a room。 I found him at
the Metropole； still smoking as it were the cigar of six months ago。
Karakhan； a handsome Armenian； elegantly bearded and moustached；
once irreverently described by Radek as 〃a donkey of classical beauty；〃
who has consistently used such influence as he has in favour of
moderation and agreement with the Allies； greeted me very cordially； and
told me that the foreign visitors were to be housed in the Kremlin。 I told
him I should much prefer to live in an hotel in the ordinary way； and he at
once set about getting a room for me。 This was no easy business； though
he obtained an authorization from Sverdlov； president of the executive
committee； for me to live where I wished； in the Metropole or the National；
which are mostly reserved for Soviet delegates； officials and members of
the Executive Committee。 Both were full； and he finally got me a room
in the old Loskutnaya Hotel； now the Red Fleet； partially reserved for
sailor delegates and members of the Naval College。
Rooms are distributed on much the same plan as clothes。 Housing is
considered a State monopoly； and a general census of housing
accommodation has taken place。 In every district there are housing
committees to whom people wanting rooms apply。 They work on the
rough and ready theory that until every man has one room no one has a
right to two。 An Englishman acting as manager of works near Moscow
told me that part of his house had been allotted to workers in his factory；
who； however； were living with him amicably； and had； I think； allowed
him to choose which rooms he should concede。 This plan has； of course；
proved very hard on house…owners； and in some cases the new tenants
have made a horrible mess of the houses； as might； indeed； have been
expected； seeing that they had previously been of those who had suffered
directly from the decivilizing influences of overcrowding。 After talking
for some time we went round the corner to the Commissariat for Foreign
Affairs； where we found Chicherin who； I thought； had aged a good deal
and was （though this was perhaps his manner） less cordial than Karakhan。
He asked about England； and I told him Litvinov knew more about that
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RUSSIA IN 1919
than I； since he had been there more recently。 He asked what I thought
would be the effect of his Note with detailed terms published that day。 I
told him that Litvinov； in an interview which I had telegraphed； had
mentioned somewhat similar terms some time before； and that personally I
doubted whether the Allies would at present come to any agreement with
the Soviet Government； but that； if the Soviet Government lasted； my
personal opinion was that the commercial isolation of so vast a country as
Russia could hardly be prolonged indefinitely on that account alone。 （For
the general attitude to that Note； see page 44。）
I then met Voznesensky （Left Social Revolutionary）； of the Oriental
Department； bursting with criticism of the Bolshevik attitude towards his
party。 He secured a ticket for me to get dinner in the Metropole。 This
ticket I had to surrender when I got a room in the National。 The dinner
consisted of a plate of soup； and a very small portion of something else。
There are National Kitchens in different parts of the town supplying
similar meals。 Glasses of weak tea were sold at 30 kopecks each；
without sugar。 My sister had sent me a small bottle of saccharine just
before I left Stockholm； and it was pathetic to see the childish delight with
which some of my friends drank glasses of sweetened tea。
》From the Metropole I went to the Red Fleet to get my room fixed up。
Six months ago there were comparatively clean rooms here； but the sailors
have demoralized the hotel and its filth is indescribable。 There was no
heating and very
