voyage of the paper canoe-第46节
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work。 De mill pebple will gib us lumber fur de new church； odders mus' gib money。 Tell ebbry cullud pusson on de island to cum on Tuesday and carry lumber； and gib ebbry one what he can； one dollar apiece； or ten cents if got no more。 De white gemmins we knows whar to find when we wants dar money； but de cullud ones is berry slippery when de hat am passed round。〃
At the termination of the preacher's exhortation； I proposed to my companion that I should present the minister with a dollar for his new church； but； with a look of dismay； he replied： 〃Oh； don't give it to the preacher。 Hand it to that other negro sitting near him。 We never trust the preacher with money； he always spends the church…money。 We only trust him for preaching。〃
Monday； March 1st； opened fair； but the wind arose when the canoe reached Three Mile Cut； which connects the Darien with Altamaha River。 I went through this narrow steamboat passage； and being prevented by the wind from entering the wide Altamaha； returned to the Darien River and ascended it to General's Cut； which； with Butler River； affords a passage to the Altamaha River。 Before entering General's Cut； mistaking a large； half submerged alligator for a log on a mud bank； the canoe nearly touched the saurian before he was roused from his nap to retire into the water。 General's Cut penetrates a rice plantation opposite the town of Darien； to Butler's Island； the estate of the late Pierce Butler； at its southern end。 Rice…planting； since the war； had not proved a very profitable business to the present proprietors； who deserve much praise for the efforts they have made to educate their freedmen。 A profitable crop of oranges is gathered some seasons from the groves upon Butler's Island。
From the mouth of General's Cut down Butler River to the Altamaha was but a short row。 The latter stream would have taken me to Altamaha Sound； to avoid which I passed through Wood's Cut into the South Altamaha River； and proceeded through the lowland rice…plantations towards St。 Simon's Island； which is by the sea。 About the middle of the afternoon； when close to Broughton Island； where the South Altamaha presented a wide area to the strong head…wind which was sending little waves over my canoe； a white plantation…house； under the veranda of which an elderly gentleman was sitting； attracted my attention。 Here was what seemed to be the last camping…ground on a route of several miles to St。 Simon's Island。
If the wind continued to blow from the same quarter； the canoe could not cross Buttermilk Sound that night； so I went ashore to inquire if there were any hammocks in the marshes by the river…banks between the plantation and the sound。
The bachelor proprietor of Broughton Island； Captain Richard A。 Akin； posted me as to the route to St。 Simon's Island； but insisted that the canoe traveller should share his comfortable quarters until the next day； and when the next day came round； and the warm sun and smooth current of the wide Altamaha invited me to continue the voyage； the hospitable rice…planter thought the weather not settled enough for me to venture down to the sound。 In fact； he held me a rather willing captive for several days； and then let me off on the condition that I should return at some future time； and spend a month with him in examining the sea islands and game resources of the vicinity。
Captain Akin was a successful rice…planter on the new system of employing freedmen on wages； but while he protected the ignorant blacks in all their newly…found rights； he was a thorough disciplinarian。 The negroes seemed to like their employer； and stuck to him with greater tenacity than they did to those planters who allowed them to do as they pleased。 The result of lax treatment with these people is always a failure of crops。 The rivers and swamps near Broughton Island abound in fine fishes and terrapin； while the marshes and flats of the sea islands afford excellent opportunities for the sportsman to try his skill upon the feathered tribe。
On Monday； March 9th； the Maria Theresa left Broughton Island well provisioned with the stores the generous captain had pressed upon my acceptance。 The atmosphere was softened by balmy breezes； and the bright sunlight played with the shadows of the clouds upon the wide marshes； which were now growing green with the warmth of returning spring。 The fish sprang from the water as I touched it with my light oars。
St。 Simon's Island； where Mr。 Pierce Butler once cultivated sea…island cotton； and to which he took his English bride； Miss Kemble； with its almost abandoned plantation； was reached before ten o'clock。 Frederica River carried me along the whole length of the island to St。 Simon's Sound。 When midway the island； I paused to survey what remains of the old town of Frederica； of which but few vestiges can be discovered。 History informs us that Frederica was the first town built by the English in Georgia； and was founded by General Oglethorpe； who began and established the colony。
The fortress was regular and beautiful； and was the largest； most regular； and perhaps most costly of any in North America of British construction。 Pursuing my journey southward； the canoe entered the exposed area of St。 Simon's Sound； which； with its ocean inlet； was easily crossed to the wild and picturesque Jekyl Island； upon which the two bachelor brothers Dubignon live and hunt the deer； enjoying the free life of lords of the forest。 Their old family mansion； once a haven of hospitality； where the northern tourist and shipwrecked sailor shared alike the good things of this life with the kind host； was used for a target by a gunboat during the late war； and is now in ruins。
Here； twenty years ago； at midnight； the slave…yacht 〃Wanderer〃 landed her cargo of African negroes； the capital for the enterprise being supplied by three southern gentlemen； and the execution of the work being intrusted； under carefully drawn contracts； to Boston parties。
The calm weather greatly facilitated my progress； and had I not missed Jekyl Creek； which is the steamboat thoroughfare through the marshes to Jekyl and St。 Andrew's Sound； that whole day's experience would have been a most happy one。 The mouth of Jekyl Creek was a narrow entrance； and being off in the sound； I passed it as I approached the lowlands； which were skirted until a passage at Cedar Hammock through the marsh was found； some distance from the one I was seeking。 Into this I entered； and winding about for some time over its tortuous course； at a late hour in the afternoon the canoe emerged into a broad watercourse； down which I could look across Jekyl Sound to the sea。
This broad stream was Jointer Creek； and I ascended it to find a spot of high ground upon which to camp。 It was now low water； and the surface of the marshes was three or four feet above my head。 After much anxious searching； and a great deal of rowing against the last of the ebb； a forest of pines and palmetto…trees was reached on Colonel's Island； at a point about four miles across the marshes and Brunswick River from the interesting old town of Brunswick； Georgia。
Home of the Alligator （101K）
The soft； muddy shores of the hammock were in one place enveloped in a thicket of reeds； and here I rested upon my oars to select a convenient landing…place。 The rustling of the reeds suddenly attracted my attention。 Some animal was crawling through the thicket in the direction of the boat。 My eyes became fixed upon the mysterious shaking and waving of the tops of the reeds； and my hearing was strained to detect the cause of the crackling of the dry rushes over which this unseen creature was moving。 A moment later my curiosity was satisfied； for there emerged slowly from the covert an alligator nearly as large as my canoe。 The brute's head was as long as a barrel； his rough coat of mail was besmeared with mud； and his dull eyes were fixed steadily upon me。 I was so surprised and fascinated by the appearance of this huge reptile that I remained immovable in my boat； while he in a deliberate manner entered the water within a few feet of me。 The hammock suddenly lost all its inviting aspect； and I pulled away from it faster than I had approached。 In the gloom I observed two little hammocks； between Colonel's Island and the Brunswick River； which seemed to be near Jointer's Creek； so I followed the tortuous thoroughfares until I was within a quarter of a mile of one of them。
Pulling my canoe up a narrow creek towards the largest hammock； until the creek ended in the lowland； I was cheered by the sight of a small house in a grove of live…oaks； to reach which I was obliged to abandon my canoe and attempt to cross the soft marsh。 The tide was now rising rapidly； and it might be necessary for me to swim some inland creek before I could arrive at the upland。
An oar was driven into the soft mud of the marsh and the canoe tied to it； for I knew that the whole country； with the exception of the hammock near by； would be under water at flood…tide。 Floundering through mud and pressing aside the tall； wire…like grass of the lowland； which entangled my feet； frequently leaping natural ditches； and going down with a thud i
