voyage of the paper canoe-第14节
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ar bluffs； near Hoboken； present a perpendicular front of three hundred or four hundred feet in height。 Piles of broken rock rest against their base： the contribution of the cliffs above from the effects of frost and sun。
While approaching the great city of New York； strong squalls of wind； blowing against the ebb…tide； sent swashy waves into my open canoe； the sides of which； amidships； were only five or six inches above water； but the great buoyancy of the light craft and its very smooth exterior created but little friction in the water and made her very seaworthy； when carefully watched and handled； even without a deck of canvas or wood。 While the canoe forged ahead through the troubled waters； and the breezes loaded with the saltness of the sea now near at hand struck my back； I confess that a longing to reach Philadelphia； where I could complete my outfit and increase the safety of my little craft； gave renewed vigor to my stroke as I exchanged the quiet atmosphere of the country for the smoke and noise of the city。 Every instinct was now challenged； and every muscle brought into action； as I dodged tug…boats； steamers； yachts； and vessels； while running the thoroughfare along the crowded wharves between New York on one side and Jersey City on the other。 I found the slips between the piers most excellent ports of refuge at times； when the ferry…boats； following each other in quick succession； made the river with its angry tide boil like a vortex。 The task soon ended； and I left the Hudson at Castle Garden and entered the upper bay of New York harbor。 As it was dark； I would gladly have gone ashore for the night； but a great city offers no inducement for a canoeist to land as a stranger at its wharves。
A much more pleasant reception awaited me down on Staten Island； a gentleman having notified me by mail that he would welcome the canoe and its owner。 The ebb had ceased； and the incoming tide was being already felt close in shore； so with tide and wind against me； and the darkness of night settling down gloomily upon the wide bay； I pulled a strong oar for five miles to the entrance of Kill Van Kull Strait； which separates Staten Island from New Jersey and connects the upper bay with Raritan Bay。
The bright beams from the light…house on Robbin's Reef； which is one mile and a quarter off the entrance of the strait； guided me on my course。 The head…sea； in little； splashy waves； began to fill my canoe。 The water soon reached the foot…rest； but there was no time to stop to bale out the boat； for a friendly current was near； and if once reached； my little craft would enter smoother waters。 The flood which poured into the mouth of Kill Van Kull soon caught my boat； and the head…tide was changed to a favorable current which carried me in its strong arms far into the salt…water strait； and I reached West New Brighton； along the high banks of which I found my haven of rest。 Against the sky I traced the outlines of my land…mark； three poplars； standing sentinel…like before the house of the gentleman who had so kindly offered me his hospitality。 The canoe was emptied of its shifting liquid ballast and carefully sponged dry。 My host and his son carried it into the main hall of the mansion and placed it upon the floor； where the entire household gathered； an admiring group。 Proud； indeed； might my dainty craft have been of the appreciation of so lovely a company。 her master fully appreciated the generous board of his kind host； and in present comfort soon forgot past trials and his wet pull across the upper bay of New York harbor。
My work for the next day； October 27th； was the navigation of the interesting strait of the old Dutch settlers and the Raritan River； of New Jersey； as far as New Brunswick。 The average width of Kill Van Kull is three…eighths of a mile。 From its entrance； at Constable's Point； to the mouth of Newark Bay； which enters it on the Jersey side； it is three miles； and nearly two miles across the bay to Elizabethport。 Bergen Point is on the east and Elizabethport on the west entrance of the bay； while on Staten Island； New Brighton； Factoryville； and North Shore； furnish homes for many New York business men。
At Elizabethport the strait narrows to one eighth of a mile； and as the mouth of the Rahway is approached it widens。 It now runs through marshes for most of the way； a distance of twelve miles to Raritan Bay； which is an arm of the lower bay of New York harbor。 The strait； from Elizabethport to its mouth； is called Arthur Kill； the whole distance through the Kills； from Constable's Point to Raritan Bay； is about seventeen statute miles。 At the mouth of Arthur Kill the Raritan River opens to the bay； and the city of Perth Amboy rests on the point of high land between the river and the strait。
Roseville and Tottenville are on the Staten Island shores of Arthur Kill； the former six miles； the latter ten miles from Elizabethport。 The tide runs swiftly through the Kills。 Leaving Mr。 Campbell's residence at nine A。 M。； with a tide in my favor as far as Newark Bay； I soon had the tide against me from the other Kill until I passed the Rahway River； when it commenced to ebb towards Raritan Bay。 The marshy shores of the Kills were submerged in places by the high tide； but their monotony was relieved by the farms upon the hills back of the flats。
At one o'clock my canoe rounded the heights upon which Perth Amboy is perched； with its snug cottages； the homes of many oystermen whose fleet of boats was anchored in front of the town。 Curious yard…like pens constructed of poles rose out of the water； in which boats could find shelter from the rough sea。
The entrance to the Raritan River is wide； and above its mouth it is crossed by a long railroad bridge。 The pull up the crooked river （sixteen miles） against a strong ebb…tide； through extensive reedy marshes； was uninteresting。 I came upon the entrance of the canal which connects the rivers Raritan and Delaware after six o'clock P。 M。； which at this season of the year was after dark。 Hiding the canoe in a secure place I went to visit an old friend； Professor George Cook； of the New Jersey State Geological Survey； who resides at New Brunswick。 In the morning the professor kindly assisted me； and we climbed the high bank of the canal with the canoe upon our shoulders； putting it into the water below the first two locks。 I now commenced an unexciting row of forty…two miles to Bordentown； on the Delaware； where this artificial watercourse ends。
This canal is much travelled by steam tugs towing schooners of two hundred tons； and by barges and canal…boats of all sizes drawing not above seven feet and a half of water。 The boats are drawn through the locks by stationary steam…engines； the use of which is discontinued when the business becomes slack； then the boatmen use their mules for the same purpose。 To tow an average…sized canal…boat； loaded； requires four mules； while an empty one is easily drawn by two。 It proved most expeditious as well as convenient not to trouble the lock…master to open the gates； but to secure his assistance in carrying the canoe along the tow…path to the end of the lock； which service occupied less than five minutes。 In this way the canoe was carried around seven locks the first day； and when dusk approached she was sheltered beside a paper shell in the boat…house of Princeton College Club； which is located on the banks of the canal about one mile and a half from the city of Princeton。
In this narrow watercourse these indefatigable collegians； under great disadvantages； drill their crews for the annual intercollegiate struggle for championship。 One Noah Reed provided entertainment for man and beast at his country inn half a mile from the boat…house； and thither I repaired for the night。
This day's row of twenty…six miles and a half had been through a hilly country； abounding in rich farm lands which were well cultivated。 The next morning an officer of the Princeton Bank awaited my coming on the banks of the sluggish canal。 He had taken an early walk from the town to see the canoe。 At Baker's Basin the bridge…tender； a one…legged man； pressed me to tarry till he could summon the Methodist minister； who had charged him to notify him of the approach of a paper canoe。
Through all my boat journeys I have remarked that professional men take more interest in canoe journeys than professional oarsmen； and nearly all the canoeists of my acquaintance are ministers of the gospel。 It is an innocent way of obtaining relaxation； and opportunities thus offered the weary clergyman of studying nature in her ever…changing but always restful moods； must indeed be grateful after being for months in daily contact with the world； the flesh； and the devil。 The tendency of the present age to liberal ideas permits clergymen in large towns and cities to drive fast horses； and spend an hour of each day at a harmless game of billiards； without giving rise to remarks from his own congregation； but let the overworked rector of a country village seek in his friendly canoe that relief which nature offers to the tired brain； let him go into the wilderness and live close to his Creator by studying his works； and a whole
