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〃You sit down by the side of a spring which gushes out from the

foot of an oak; amid a covering of fragile herbs; growing and

redolent of life。 You go down on your knees; bend forward; and

drink the cold and pellucid water; wetting your mustache and

nose; you drink it with a physical pleasure; as though you were

kissing the spring; lip to lip。 Sometimes; when you encounter a

deep hole; along the course of these tiny brooks; you plunge into

it; quite naked; and on your skin; from head to foot; like an icy

and delicious caress; you feel the lovely and gentle quivering of

the current。



〃You are gay on the hills; melancholy on the verge of pools;

exalted when the sun is crowned in an ocean of blood…red shadows;

and when it casts on the rivers its red reflection。 And at night;

under the moon; as it passes across the vault of heaven; you

think of things; singular things; which would never have occurred

to your mind under the brilliant light of day。



〃So; in wandering through the same country we are in this year; I

came to the little village of Benouville; on the Falaise; between

Yport and Etretat。 I came from Fecamp; following the coast; a

high coast; perpendicular as a wall; with projecting and rugged

rocks falling sheer down into the sea。 I had walked since the

morning on the close clipped grass; as smooth and as yielding as

a carpet。 Singing lustily; I walked with long strides; looking

sometimes at the slow and lazy flight of a gull; with its short;

white wings; sailing in the blue heavens; sometimes at the green

sea; or at the brown sails of a fishing bark。 In short; I had

passed a happy day; a day of listlessness and of liberty。



〃I was shown a little farmhouse; where travelers were put up; a

kind of inn; kept by a peasant; which stood in the center of a

Norman court; surrounded by a double row of beeches。



〃Quitting the Falaise。 I gained the hamlet; which was hemmed in

by great trees; and I presented myself at the house of Mother

Lecacheur。



〃She was an old; wrinkled; and austere rustic; who always seemed

to yield to the pressure of new customs with a kind of contempt。



〃It was the month of May: the spreading apple…trees covered the

court with a whirling shower of blossoms which rained unceasingly

both upon people and upon the grass。



〃I said:



〃 'Well; Madame Lecacheur; have you a room for me?'



〃Astonished to find that I knew her name; she answered:



〃 'That depends; everything is let; but; all the same; there will

be no harm in looking。'



〃In five minutes we were in perfect accord; and I deposited my

bag upon the bare floor of a rustic room; furnished with a bed;

two chairs; a table; and a washstand。 The room opened into the

large and smoky kitchen; where the lodgers took their meals with

the people of the farm and with the farmer himself; who was a

widower。



〃I washed my hands; after which I went out。 The old woman was

fricasseeing a chicken for dinner in a large fireplace; in which

hung the stew…pot; black with smoke。



〃 'You have travelers; then; at the present time?' said I to her。



〃She answered in an offended tone of voice:



〃 'I have a lady; an English lady; who has attained to years of

maturity。 She is occupying my other room。'



〃By means of an extra five sous a day; I obtained the privilege

of dining out in the court when the weather was fine。



〃My cover was then placed in front of the door; and I commenced

to gnaw with hunger the lean members of the Normandy chicken; to

drink the clear cider; and to munch the hunk of white bread;

which; though four days old; was excellent。



〃Suddenly; the wooden barrier which opened on to the highway was

opened; and a strange person directed her steps toward the house。

She was very slender; very tall; enveloped in a Scotch shawl with

red borders。 You would have believed that she had no arms; if you

had not seen a long hand appear just above the hips; holding a

white tourist umbrella。 The face of a mummy; surrounded with

sausage rolls of plaited gray hair; which bounded at every step

she took; made me think; I know not why; of a sour herring

adorned with curling papers。 Lowering her eyes; she passed

quickly in front of me; and entered the house。



〃This singular apparition made me curious。 She undoubtedly was my

neighbor; the aged English lady of whom our hostess had spoken。



〃I did not see her again that day。 The next day; when I had begun

to paint at the end of that beautiful valley; which you know

extends as far as Etretat; lifting my eyes suddenly; I perceived

something singularly attired standing on the crest of the

declivity; it looked like a pole decked out with flags。 It was

she。 On seeing me; she suddenly disappeared。 I re…entered the

house at midday for lunch; and took my seat at the common table;

so as to make the acquaintance of this old and original creature。

But she did not respond to my polite advances; was insensible

even to my little attentions。 I poured water out for her with

great alacrity; I passed her the dishes with great eagerness。 A

slight; almost imperceptible movement of the head; and an English

word; murmured so low that I did not understand it; were her

only acknowledgments。



〃I ceased occupying myself with her; although she had disturbed

my thoughts。 At the end of three days; I knew as much about her

as did Madame Lecacheur herself。



〃She was called Miss Harriet。 Seeking out a secluded village in

which to pass the summer; she had been attracted to Benouville;

some six months before; and did not seem disposed to quit it。 She

never spoke at table; ate rapidly; reading all the while a small

book; treating of some Protestant propaganda。 She gave a copy of

it to everybody。 The cure himself had received no less than four

copies; at the hands of an urchin to whom she had paid two sous'

commission。 She said sometimes to our hostess; abruptly; without

preparing herin the least for the declaration:



〃 'I love the Saviour more than all; I worship him in all

creation; I adore him in all nature; I carry him always in my

heart。'



〃And she would immediately present the old woman with one of her

brochures which were destined to convert the universe。



〃In the village she was not liked。 In fact; the schoolmaster had

declared that she was an atheist; and that a sort of reproach

attached to her。 The cure; who had been consulted by Madame

Lecacheur; responded:



〃 'She is a heretic; but God does not wish the death of the

sinner; and I believe her to be a person of pure morals。'



〃These words; 'atheist;' 'heretic;' words which no one can

precisely define; threw doubts into some minds。 It was asserted;

however; that this English…woman was rich; and that she had

passed her life in traveling through every country in the world;

because her family had thrown her off。 Why had her family thrown

her off? Because of her natural impiety?



〃She was; in fact; one of those people of exalted principles; one

of those opinionated puritans of whom England produces so many;

one of those good and insupportable old women who haunt the

tables d'hote of every hotel in Europe; who spoil Italy; poison

Switzerland; render the charming cities of the Mediterranean

uninhabitable; carry everywhere their fantastic manias; their

petrified vestal manners; their indescribable toilettes; and a

certain odor of india…rubber; which makes one believe that at

night they slip themselves into a case of that material。 When I

meet one of these people in a hotel; I act like birds which see a

manikin in a field。



〃This woman; however; appeared so singular that she did not

displease me。



〃Madame Lecacheur; hostile by instinct to everything that was not

rustic; felt in her narrow soul a kind of hatred for the ecstatic

extravagances of the old girl。 She had found a phrase by which to

describe her; I know not how; but a phrase assuredly

contemptuous; which had sprung to her lips; invented probably by

some confused and mysterious travail of soul。 She said: 'That

woman is a demoniac。' This phrase; as uttered by that austere and

sentimental creature; seemed to me irresistibly comic。 I; myself;

never called her now anything else but 'the demoniac。' feeling a

singular pleasure in pronouncing this word on seeing her。



〃I would ask Mother Lecacheur: 'Well; what is our demoniac about

to…day?' To which my rustic friend would respond; with an air of

having been scandalized:



〃 'What do you think; sir? She has picked up a toad which has had

its leg battered; and carried it to her room; and has put it in

her washstand; and dressed it up like a man。 If that is not

profanation; I should like to know what is!'



〃On another occasion; when walking along the Falaise; she had

bought a large fish which had just been caught; simply to throw

it back into the sea again。 The sailor; from whom she had bought

it; thou

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